September 26th, 2013

Though we started out from Granon yesterday morning with great expectations, we had to throw in the towel - the very sweaty towel - after 15 hot, hot, km and stop for the night in the town of Belorando.  This town seemed a bit run-down, but it is one of the pilgrim guide watering stops, so I´d guess there´s plenty of pilgrim business to help the town along.  We stayed at a really nice family- run albergue called ¨Cuatros Cantones" where for 9 euros including breakfast we stayed in a very spacious, airy  third floor loft with white stucco walls, exposed timber beams, and a skylight, where we shared the 18-bed room with only 10 people.  The showers were spotless and the commodes well-stocked with TP (not always a given, especially in the municipal albergues.).  The overall decor was very traditional Spanish, the stairways and halls done withpretty  Spanish tiles, bright yellow stucco walls, and in the landings there were wood credenzas and wooden dish cabinets holding colorful dishes and vases.  It was a very nice place. The family cooked a pilgrim meal  for us, 7.50 euros, good but , we decided, not the best we´ve had.  For starters I broke my vow to stick with the salad (Tom had the salad - I guess we´re back in tuna country.  Marianne:  canned tuna.  With oil.) I opened with the paella mainly because I´d decided that while I was in Spain I´d eat paella, but I´ve come to realize that my own rice casserole is as good as or better than  any paella I´ve eaten here, so now I´m kind of over the paella.  But other than that we really liked this place.  Oh, and for 3 euros they did our laundry for us, a servide that always warms my heart.  Anyway, as for our day on the trail yesterday:  Dad´s knee was thankfully, better.  Now the ¨Only Rock On the Dirt Lot¨story  has become the ¨Pit Bull Bite¨ story of the Camino.  (Tom was bitten by a pit bull a few months ago.  Believe me, a malicious  pit bull  is way worst than a malicious rock!).  Any time Tom stopped to talk to one of his pilgrim friends (and he has lots -as you can imagine,  his personality seems to transcend culture and language!) he showed them his ripped pants and bandaged knee and told his story.  Everyone was sympathetic, we pilgrims always sympathize with each other and try to help each other´s hurts in any way we can.  I guess we all know that any of us might be the one who´s hurting next time.  It amazes me, all the pilgrims who are working their way along the Camino in spite of physical ailments:  everything from arthritic knees to Cystic Fibrosis to good old fashioned old age.  But as you walk along whenever a pilgrim passes you they smile and give you a "Buen Camino¨, and you ¨Buen Camino" them right back.  "Buen Camino" is the Camino version of "Have a Nice Day". Even the people in the towns often stop and smile and offer us a "Buen Camino¨, and even the children do, too.  (I wonder if they´re taught from a young age that that´s what you say to the pilgrims?).  Anyway,I guess  when you´re hearing "Have a Nice Day" all day long, you kind of can´t help having one.  Add to that the beautiful natural wonders all around you, especially when you´re at the crest of a mountain and the panorama opens up all around you:  mountains, fields, vineyards, and the piilgrims walking ahead of you look so small against this backdrop.  "And I think to myself:  it´s a wonderful world."  May there be something wonderful in your world today.  Love, Patti 8)